淺說皮革表面處理
Talks on Leather Finishing
皮革有表面處理的技術，還是一百多年前在歐洲才有的事。說到表面處理這回事，不是只有在皮革上才有，幾乎所有物品都需要表面處理的，英文通常用finish或是finishing，前者是名詞，後者是動名詞，另外有人用dressing ，也有人用coating，但是比較多的人都接受finish這個字，當然，這個字也是有結束或是完成的意思，也就是說如果沒有做好表面處理的過程，產品就不算是完成。
日本人把表面處理稱之為仕上，發音為shiaga，台灣人也受到影響，也把表面處理用日文發音（喜亞給）來稱呼，所以皮革表面處理劑，日本人就會用了仕上劑這個名稱。由於皮革表面處理劑這個名詞太長，在實務上我們經常簡稱為皮革塗飾，而在大型皮革廠通常都有塗飾部門，也有很多皮革廠只從皮胚開始做塗飾加工，投資金額就比較少一點外，生產過程也比較短。
在台灣有些地方賣的床面處理劑，其實就是皮革表面處理劑的一種底層的接著劑（Binder），也就是說用在皮革上的填充或是遮蓋（傷殘）用的樹脂，成份通常是丙烯酸樹脂，一般人説的壓克力樹脂(Acrylic Binder），使用的目的在於皮胚(Crust Leather)上做一層膜，可以滲透在皮革的內部纖維（Fiber)組織，以做好未來的塗飾的接著效果。如果，將來不做任何塗飾的話，這樣也可以成為一層保護膜。在此順便一提，很多日文用的漢字，不能夠直接解讀成中文的，比如日本人用手紙兩個字的漢字，是一封信的意思，而不是我們想的衛生紙。所以日本人用床面處理劑這個名字，我們是不是應該改成填充樹脂,或是底層樹脂（Base Coat Resin),或是台語發音的碰花樹脂比較好，英文名稱為Impregnation resin bider，也有人叫做飽滿樹脂。
皮革表面處理技術有千百種，要看客戶的需求，以及市場流行的趨勢，以及工廠生產設備條件，還有皮革塗飾技術人員的水準而定。也不是所有的皮胚一定要做塗飾，都是以客戶喜好為導向。
資料來源:皮革與生活
The Concept of Finishing
Finishing in the leather industry is a technique that originated in Europe over a century ago. While the concept of “finishing” exists in various industries, it is universally accepted as a crucial final step for a product. In English, the terms “finish” or “finishing” are commonly used, though some might use “dressing” or “coating.”
In Japanese, this process is referred to as “Shiage” (仕上), and in Taiwan, the same term is used, phonetically pronounced as “Xi Ya Ge.”
Types of Finishers
In practical terms, leather finishing is often referred to as “leather coatings.” Large leather factories usually have a specific department dedicated to finishing. Some smaller factories focus only on adding finishes to crust leather, which requires less investment and a shorter production process.
Components and Binders
In Taiwan, some products marketed as “bed finishers” are essentially bottom layer adhesives (Binders) used in leather finishing. These are generally composed of acrylic resins, aiming to form a layer that can penetrate into the leather’s fibrous structure. This provides a good base for future coatings and can act as a protective layer if no additional coatings are applied.
Cultural Nuances
It’s worth noting that Japanese Kanji characters might not always translate directly into Chinese meanings. For example, in Japanese, “Hand paper” refers to a letter, not toilet paper. Therefore, the term “bed finishers” might better be referred to as “Base Coat Resin” or “Impregnation Resin Binder.”
Tailoring to Needs
Leather finishing techniques are numerous, depending on customer needs, market trends, available production equipment, and the skill level of the technical staff. Not all crust leathers must undergo finishing; it is often customer-driven.
Summary
Finishing in leather production is an essential step that impacts the product’s final quality and appearance. The types of finishes and methods employed can vary widely, but their importance in meeting customer expectations and market demands cannot be overstated.
